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After the oil is extracted from the paste,  the much desired extra virgin olive oil is treated like  liquid gold.

Today, many olive mills are replacing stone wheels with more modern crushing machinery, equipped with hammer-like arms, which gently break up the olives. The new method is faster, and the stainless steel machines make cleaning much easier.  With this newer method, the oil is separated from the must without an actual "pressing". In a traditional pressing, still in wide use today, the must is spread in thin layers on cocoa fiber mats and stacked, between stainless steel plates, in a mechanical press.  As pressure is applied, oil and water slowly seep from the mats, and is collected in vats below. Traditionally, the separation of the oil from the water was achieved by letting the oil decant naturally.  Oil, being lighter than water, slowly rises to the top and could be carefully removed with a flat copper ladle the Italians called a "pace".

Illustrations by RO MARCENARO

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